samedi 5 novembre 2011

Myanmar, Finally !

I am still wondering … how is it possible to have waited 2 years before finally going to such an amazing country as Myanmar !
Seriously, Myanmar, just the name give me shiver of excitement ! To me it says colours, religion, beauty, Buddha, monks, poverty as well … I always imagined Myanmar would be a special destination compare to all my other trips in Asia.

The tickets are booked for months, so my excitement was at its height when I finally landed in Yangon ! I was more than ready to immerse myself into its muggy heat, into its stifling atmosphere ….
1st stop, Yangon, major city of the country, officially not the capital anymore since 2005. Indeed, the junta decided overnight to move the capital 300 km north, to Nay Pyu Daw. There is several rumours to justify that decision, including the more central location of that city. But apparently the real reason would be that the astrologers of the junta thought  the location was more in line with the stars ! Apparently they have a great influence on the government. For example they are the one who convinced them to change the currency and all the notes to multiples of 9, luck number! Notes of 9, but also 45 started to be printed ! Eventually they had to withdraw this new currency, totally unviable economically wise ! Anyway, Nay Pyi Daw is a brand new capital, with permanent supply of electricity and water (the rest of the country can’t pretend the same ! I will come back to that subject later on !) and amazing roads (bis, I will come back to that !) but where no official embassy agreed to move to . (Except one if I am not wrong but I am not sure which one).
Yangon remains THE Place to Be !
Just arrived, we proceed for check in in the guesthouse and directly we leave to visit a maximum of things during this single day in Yangon. Just a step away from the hotel is the 1st temple we visit, Botataung Paya , first of a (very ) long series of temples !
Burmese temples are similar to no other religious monument in Asia. Made of a massive pointed dome, covered with golden leaves , there are brilliant, sparkling, impressive.  1st temple, 1st contact … 2 men offer us to eat with them some sunflower seeds … We try to communicate but they don’t speak English at all … but they like football, Manchester ! Some topics are universal !
We continue to walk through downtown Yangon. Roads are larges, lined with tall trees. Colonial buildings are left to their fate, given up to pollution, humidity and passing time.  It looks a bit like Vietnam, ex colony, less Hanoi infernal traffic ! And that is for the best !
While walking we discover the local version of a public phone ! Basically some phones, directly on a table, and linked to the telephone cables  ! Probably totally illegal, but quiet smart !
2nd Pagoda, all right … we have seen it all before ! Same golden dome, same shoes to be left outside, same 2USD for foreigners !
But that second temple, Sule Paya, is the occasion of a nice encounter with 3 Burmese guy, including a monk and 2 students !
One of them is learning French ! And looks amazingly gorgeous ! We have lunch all together is a typical Burmese restaurant, and we treat ourselves with curries of mutton, lentils, lady fingers and of course the large plate of rice !
Then we go for a walk in the market where we separate. They have to go back to the monastery they live in.
In the market I have an obsession … rubies ! Burmese rubies are supposed to be among the most beautiful in the word, especially the pigeon blood red rubies from Mogok … Unfortunately there are banned from most jewellery brands, as an opposition to the Junta. Anyway … there is precious or semi precious stones sellers everywhere ! The thing is .. I have no clue how to differentiate a real from a fake, a Myanmar ruby from a vulgar red spinel ! But I don’t care, I pretend, I observe with magnifying glass, I talk about prices .. and of course I leave empty-handed ! Oh actually not totally empty-handed … I change 200 USD into Kyat; the local currency ! I suddenly have to  carry with me an embarrassing wad of 160 notes of 1000 Kyats ! I am rich !!
Next stop … Shwedagon Paya, the biggest and most impressive temple in Yangon, if not in all Myanmar. It is 5 pm, and it is almost sunset. Each second the light changes, changing the colors of the temple and offering an amazing sight. Inch by inch , the pagoda lights up, the blue sky become darker and the gold become more and more sparkling ! In 15 min times am in front of the most beautiful sight I have ever seen : I could stay there for hours, just looking at the slow flow of tourists, monks, women and children …  In the middle of the crowd I could almost feel alone in the world, all focus on so much beauty !
We return to downtown Yangon, close by Sule Paya, looking for a place to have dinner. Lucky us, we meet again with the guy from this morning ! It is destiny ! We go for a beer at the Satura Tower, from where there is a nice view over the city.  During the discussion we discover that the guy wake up every morning at 4am  to pray, help on the housework at the monastery before going to university where he studies religious architecture. He wants to renovate religious monuments, especially in Bagan …
Mummm, may I take him home … pleasssse ! I want the same oneeee !
Well, an interesting encounter !
Exhausted, we take a cab back to the hotel … that the taxi driver finally find after many detours !!
Tomorrow, 4 am we have a flight to catch … Bagan, here we come !

Yangon
See :  Shwedagon Paya (5USD), Sule Paya (2USD) – We visited more on the last day of the trip, more details to come.
Hotel : Ocean Pearl Inn . Guesthouse with no charm and no interest , but they will come and pick you up at the airport for free. Cold water, but zircon ! 23 USD for a triple room with breakfast. Taxi to go back to the airport 7000 K.
Drink at the Satura Tower, Bogyoke Aung San Road. 360° view over Yangon.

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